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Tom Colicchio, Eddie Huang Go Shark Fishing v novi oddaji YouTube

Tom Colicchio, Eddie Huang Go Shark Fishing v novi oddaji YouTube



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Nekaj ​​se govori o pot, hip-hopu in Marcusu Samuelssonu

YouTubov Reserve Channel je prevzel Eric Riperta in ga prosil, naj postavlja težka vprašanja BFF -ju Anthonyju Bourdainu, in zdi se, da je to nova oddaja Toma Colicchia Priklopljen je približno enako.

V prvi epizodi Colicchio popelje tajvansko-ameriškega kuharja Eddieja Huanga na ribolov morskih psov, kjer poklepetajo o hip-hopu, glasbi, kuhanju in vseh drugih vročih temah, ki so velike na newyorški sceni. Huang se v prizoru s svinjsko žemljo spopade z Davidom Changom ("[svinjska žemljica Momofuku] ni izum. To je kot, ko je prišel Christopher Columbus in rekel, da sem odkril Ameriko. Naleteli ste nanjo," je dejal Huang) in izbral McRib pred legendarnim svinjska žemlja. "To je samorog vseh živil, ki jih dobimo enkrat letno," pravi Huang.

Nekaj ​​je govora tudi o glasbi, kjer Colicchio priznava, da ni tako navdušen nad hip-hopom, še posebej v živo ("Le tolikokrat se lahko primeš za mednožje in skočiš po odru," pravi), Huang pa govori o svoji glasbeni evoluciji. Najboljši album za kajenje zdaj? Rick Ross "Bog odpušča, jaz ne." Celotno epizodo si oglejte spodaj.


Tom Colicchio o tem, kaj dela odlične morske jedi

Nastavitev zmaja za dvigovanje vrvi za dan globokomorskega ribolova. Matt Taylor-Gross

Ko gre za odlične morske sadeže, je treba vedeti več kot le nakup svežega ulova. Kar zadeva Toma Colicchia, je to, kako so z ribo ravnali na čolnu, enako pomembno kot pri ulovu.

Zato sem z njim na obali Miami Beacha, mimo pregradnega grebena narodnega parka Biscayne, kjer se morsko dno spusti z 12 čevljev na okoli 200 čevljev. Morja so nemirna in neusmiljena pred napovedanim neurjem za večer. Ni treba posebej poudarjati, da za tega novinca ribiča ni dober dan, ki se komaj drži svojega dostojanstva.

Colicchio pomaga poveljniku čolna, da izstreli 15-metrsko napihljivo morsko sidro, da se lahko zlahka odpravimo proti jugu v tako imenovano glavno krmišče za jadralce. V desetih minutah niz izpopolnjenih zmajev leti visoko nad čolnom, preden spusti vabe 60 čevljev na površino vode.

Lovske ribe, tako kot moški na tem čolnu, cenijo izziv in so se naučile zaznati vibracije boja manjših rib. Viseča vaba in vsa njena drama vodijo do spektakularnega udarca: Plenilska riba leti iz vode in jo odnese.

Tom Colicchio

Eden najvidnejših kuharjev, restavratorjev in zagovornikov trajnostnih morskih sadežev v Ameriki, Colicchio se odloča za čim večji nakup neposredno od ribičev, ki jim zaupa. Ta morska hrana, pogosto surova, ima vidno vlogo na menijih v njegovih obalnih restavracijah v Los Angelesu v New Yorku in v Beachcraftu v Miami Beachu.

Kasneje, nazaj v restavraciji, nameravamo narediti ceviche, kjer vse podrobnosti štejejo. "Bil sem na drugih komercialnih krovih, kjer ribe pretepejo in pustijo na soncu, kar ogroža rok trajanja," pravi Colicchio. Z drugimi besedami, na videz preprosti, skoraj brezskrbni manevri na čolnu lahko drastično vplivajo na kakovost hrane, ki jo jeste v restavraciji ali doma.

Eden najprimernejših virov, znan kot guru črnega brancina v srednjem Atlantiku, je na njem pustil trajen vtis med ribolovom na morju. Ribič je vsako ribo vzel s trnke in jo položil neposredno v led - ne da bi se en sam dotaknil palube čolna.

Ta raven oskrbe in gnezdenja se razteza na "krvavitev ribe" in njeno pravilno ohladitev, ko je ulovljena. Krvavitev ribe pomeni, da jo odrežete na strateškem mestu, na primer v grlu, da iztisnete kri, kar preprečuje razbarvanje in neprijetne spremembe okusa in teksture nekaterih vrst rib. Ljudje razpravljajo o tem, kako pomembna je krvavitev, vendar se vsi strinjajo, da je polaganje na led ključnega pomena - tudi najboljša riba se pokvari, če je ne ohladimo takoj.

Ribiške palice trdno v svojih kuburah. Matt Taylor-Gross

Colicchio kliče tudi nekaj napotkov za tiste, ki ne kupujemo rib vsak dan na pomolu. Začnite tako, da poiščete najlepšega na dan, ko ga nameravate postreči, in bodite prilagodljivi glede tega, kaj bi lahko bila ta riba. Poglejte ribam v oči - naj bodo popolnoma jasne - in preverite čistost lusk in škrg. Tu se boste morali prepričati, da v ribah ni parazitov. Prepričajte se, da diši po oceanu in ne po stari ribi.

Nekaj ​​ur potovanja član Colicchiove ekipe potegne banano iz torbe za prigrizek. To je po mnenju izkušenih ribičev velika nesreča. Vraževerje je različnega izvora, vključno z razbitinami čolnov z bananami in ladjami, okuženimi z žuželkami, in lahko pojasni, zakaj v sicer izjemno produktivnih vodah ne vidimo nobenih dejanj. A vseeno nadaljujemo s cevichejem.

Colicchio se rad ukvarja s klasičnim perujskim slogom in se odloči za nenavadne sestavine, kot so kosmulje, sumac in rožnati poper z koščki pokrovače. Danes zdravi rdečega snapperja v limetinem soku s pasijonko, medom in aji amarillo čili pasto ter ga predstavi skupaj z mladim mladičem, dediščinskim paradižnikom, ogljeno super sladko koruzo, koriandrom in papriko serrano.

Vodi po tradicionalnih južnoameriških tehnikah in z zelo ostrim nožem razreže ribe na dovolj velike kose, da poudari teksturo mesa. Reže, pravi, da je bolj primerno za crudo, italijansko različico sashimija, ki je pogosto oblečeno oljčno olje. Ceviche najbolje vzame na koščke.

Tom Colicchio ’s Pasijonka Ceviche

Prav tako uživa v uporabi premalo cenjenih rib za dodajanje globine cevicheju: escolar zaradi visoke vsebnosti olja ter črnega brancina in metilja na vzhodni obali. Red snapper je sicer pogostejša riba, vendar je njegova najljubša iz Zaliva. "Tradicionalisti pravijo, da tega ne morete storiti ali temu ne morete reči, vendar mislim, da je v redu, dokler je dobro."

Poleg rib poudarja, da najde pravo ravnovesje med zeliščnimi notami, kislino, začimbami. Sesekljajte rdečo čebulo, čebulice, čili, limetin sok in sadje, kot so mango, papaja, lubenica ali kar je za sezono smiselno.

Colicchio pusti, da se ribe približno 15 minut marinirajo v soku limete, da ohranijo ostale sestavine čiste. In ko je vse končano, ga ohrani ledeno mrzlo z dvema kovinskima skledama, ki je eno gnezdilo v večji, polno ledu. Kajti resnica na čolnu je enako pomembna, ko je ulov v vaših rokah.

Galena raziskuje užitno kulturo za radovedne jedce, pivce in mislece. Lani si je podelila štipendijo za življenje v Parizu in pisanje v tujini. V Franciji, na Japonskem in v Nemčiji so se zgodile življenjske dogodivščine, ki so jo z neskončnim navdihom pripeljale na Miami Beach. Sledite ji na Twitterju in Instagramu.


RECEPT: MORSKI BASS Z NORI IN ČEŠNJOVIMI RASTNIKI

  1. Meso pomanjšajte, filetirajte in narežite na palčke široke palce.
  2. V ponvi segrejte olivno olje in dodajte majhno pest sesekljanega pora. "Kar potim, se potim," pravi. "Na njih sploh ne želim barve."
  3. Ko se por zmehča, zmanjšajte ogenj in dodajte češnjev paradižnik ter malo vode, da se duši. "Ko bodo pripravljeni, bodo nekako pop in izpustili tekočino," pravi, "ki postane omaka."
  4. V ponev za toploto dodajte ščepec tanko narezanega svežega popra.
  5. V ponev dodajte kos masla, nato pa še brancina. Kuhajte približno pet minut, meso enkrat ali dvakrat obrnite, dokler se zlahka ne razpade.
  6. Ribe na krožnike in dodamo sveža zelišča, na primer kocke česna. "To je zelo enostavno in hitro," pravi Colicchio. "In dobro."

Za dostop do video posnetkov z ekskluzivno opremo, intervjujev s slavnimi osebami in še več se naročite na YouTube!


Najboljši recepti za postrv, čarovnico, lososa in soma

OL deli najbolj okusne recepte za postrvi, lososa, mrene, črtastega basa in soma.

To je vodnik OL ’s za kuhanje najboljših rib, ki ste jih kdaj okusili. Za recepte smo se obrnili na tri vrhunske kuharje, ki so tudi navdušeni ribiči. Nato smo poklicali naše prijatelje pri podjetju Saveur (ki so v decembrski/januarski številki pomagali z našo funkcijo “Perfect Venison ”), naj recepte zaživijo. Toda edini način, da v celoti uživate v teh receptih, je, da jih pripravite sami. Ko boste naslednjič na vodi, položite ribo ali dve na led. Potem pojdite domov in poskusite eno od teh slanih jedi. To je čudovit način praznovanja enega največjih daril na prostem. VIDEO
Vezana postrv: Ustvarjalni nov recept postrvi
Kako združiti pivo z naslednjo ribjo jedjo
Kako izbrati vino za naslednjo ribjo jed Pražen črtast bas s koruznim okusom
(služi 4)
2 žlici. arašidovo olje
4 1-palčni debeli, sredinsko izrezani črtasti basovi fileti (vsak po približno 6 oz), na koži
Košer sol in sveže mleti črni poper
3-4 žlice. nesoljeno maslo
2 vejici svežega timijana
Navodila za grobo morsko sol
1. Olje segrejte v veliki ponvi na zmernem ognju, da zlahka zdrsne po ponvi. Filete temeljito posušite s papirnatimi brisačkami, jih začinite s košer soljo in poprom na obeh straneh, nato pa jih s kožo obrnjeno navzdol dodajte v ponev. 2. Zmanjšajte ogenj (olje mora cvreti, ne brizgati) in fileje kuhajte, dokler lupine niso hrustljave, približno 3 minute. Obrnite filete in na drugi strani nežno porjavite, še približno 3 minute. 3. Dodajte maslo in timijan. Nadaljujte s kuhanjem filetov, jih enkrat ali dvakrat obrnite (tako da enakomerno porjavijo) in prelijete z rahlo rjavkastim maslom. Kuhajte, dokler ribe niso neprozorne, približno 4 minute. Postrezite na enkrat, pokapano z rjavim maslom in posuto z grobo morsko soljo. Opomba kuharskega mojstra: Lahko se nadomesti vsaka riba s trdim mesom (morska plošča, trska, ostrina, losos, škarpina). Prepričajte se le, da so fileti debeli približno 1 cm, ali temu primerno prilagodite čas kuhanja. Lososovi zrezki na žaru
(služi 4)
4 majhni ali 2 velika sladka krompirja
½ skodelice rjavega sladkorja
½ žličke. muškatni orešček
4 8- do 10 oz. lososovi zrezki
½ skodelice olivnega olja
½ skodelice zmehčanega masla
1 skodelica omake za žar po izbiri
4 rezine limone Navodila
1. Sladki krompir operemo in narežemo na 1 ½ palca debele kroge. V slani vodi kuhamo 10 minut. Odcedite vodo in pustite, da se krompir skuha. Hranite v hladilniku, dokler ni potrebno. V manjši skledi zmešajte rjavi sladkor in muškatni orešček. 2. Žar segrejte na srednje vroč. Ribje zrezke in rezine sladkega krompirja namažite z olivnim oljem. Ribe in sladki krompir položite na žar in kuhajte 3 minute. Obrnite se, da naredite križne oznake. Pustimo kuhati še 3 minute. Obrni se. Vrhove zrezkov premažemo z zmehčanim maslom. Potresemo z mešanico rjavega sladkorja. Prelijemo z omako z žara. Zaprite pokrov in kuhajte 3 do 4 minute. Ko je riba srednje redka, na krožnik položite ribje zrezke in sladki krompir. Postrezite z rezinami limone. Kuharski nasvet: Če želite, lahko pire sladki krompir naredite po odstranitvi kroglic krompirja z žara. Krompir damo v skledo z 1 žlico masla in 1 žlico smetane. Zmečkajte in postrezite pod zrezki. Cela postrv na žaru z baziliko, paradižnikom in avokadom
(Služi 4)
4 cele postrvi (odkoščene)
Sol in poper
8 velikih vejic sveže bazilike
2 limone, narezane in prepolovljene
Ekstra deviško olivno olje
Navodila za mesarske vrvice
1. Votlino vsake postrvi začinimo s soljo in poprom. Na grobo nasekljamo štiri vejice bazilike (steblo in vse). V vsako votlino vstavite enako količino in prelijte z rezinami limone. Postrv zavežite tako, da je votlina zaprta z mesarsko vrvico. Držite v hladilniku 1 uro, preden ste pripravljeni za kuhanje. 2. Zaženite žar. Ko je premog pripravljen, rešetko žara previdno očistite. Rešetko naoljite. Zunanjost postrvi začinimo s soljo in poprom. Zalijte z ekstra deviškim oljčnim oljem. Postrv postavite na žar in kuhajte 5 minut na vsaki strani. Pazite, da ne zažge. Casino Walleye s papriko in čebulo
(služi 4)
2 žlici. maslo
4 8- do 10 oz. fileji mrežice
½ skodelice začinjene torte
1 žličke. olivno olje
½ skodelice rdeče paprike, narezane na kocke
½ skodelice zelene paprike, narezane na kocke
½ skodelice zelene čebule, narezane na 1/4 palca
1 žličke. kapre, odcejene
½ skodelice kuhane slanine, sesekljane
1 žlička. Worcestershire omaka
1 cela limona, narezana na 4 rezine Navodila
1. V veliki ponvi segrejte maslo do hitrega mehurčka. Ribje filete stresemo v začinjeno torto in otresemo odvečnih ostankov. Ribe damo v maslo in pražimo do zlato rjave barve. Ribe nežno obrnite, zmanjšajte ogenj in kuhajte še 2 do 3 minute. 2. Med kuhanjem rib segrejte olivno olje v srednji ponvi. Dodamo papriko in zeleno čebulo. Pražimo 1 minuto. Dodajte kapre, kuhano slanino in Worcestershire omako. Nežno premešajte. Kuhane ribje filete odstranite in položite na topel krožnik. Ribje filete prelijemo z casino mešanico in postrežemo z rezinami limone. Kuharski nasvet: Ta recept je odlična izbira za vse vrste ribjih zrezkov ali zrezkov. Tempura ocvrt cel som
(služi 4)
4 2 lb. cel som (v kosti)
2 skodelici moke
2 skodelici koruznega škroba
2 žlici. pecilni prašek
2 žlici. sol
2 žlici. Črni poper
2 skodelici hladne gazirane vode
½ galona arašidovo olje
1 velik lonec s težkim dnom
Oljni termometer
1 par klešč z dolgimi ročaji Navodila
1. Soma sperite, posušite in posušite
votlino in zunaj soma začinimo s soljo in poprom. Držite v hladilniku do
pripravljeno za cvrtje. 2. Zmešajte vse suhe sestavine. Vmešajte gazirano vodo in držite v hladilniku, dokler ni pripravljena za cvrtje. 3. Arašidovo olje segrejte na 360 stopinj. Soma premažemo v testo za tempuro in s kleščami počasi zdrsnemo v olje. Naenkrat prepražimo le dva soma. Kuhajte približno 5 minut. Odstranite iz olja in položite na odtočno rešetko ali na papirnate brisače. Skrbite za ulov
Po vsakem dnevu ribolova v zalivu Barnegat v zalivu New Jersey in#8217s z dedkom je bil najstnik Tom Colicchio zadolžen za skrb za dnevni ulov. Trening mu je dobro služil. Voditelj Bravo ’s Top Chef do danes ostaja natančen glede rib, ki jih ulovi, in skrbi, ki jo ima s seboj, pa naj bo ta pripravljena za goste v eni izmed njegovih bogato priznanih restavracij ali za družino in prijatelje doma. Tu so njegovi nasveti. Čolnarske ribe
“ Z ribami, ki jih nameravate jesti, ravnajte previdno. Ribje meso je zelo občutljivo. Ne mečite ga okoli čolna in ga ne držite za rep, sicer tvegate, da boste meso raztrgali in file pretepli. ” Boksarske ribe
“Ne dovolite, da bi ribe ležale na palubi čolna. Takoj ga odzračite in takoj zaledite. Če ujamete tuno, jo položite v škatlo za ribe na trebuhu, tako kot plava. Tuna je zelo mehka. ” Zamrzovanje rib
“Ne storite tega. Za obrok ali dva vzemite, kar želite, in to je to. Zamrzovanje rib je samo slaba ideja. ” Kuhanje rib
“ Pojdi preprosto. Žar je dober. Brez okrasnih omak in nikoli ne prekuhajte rib. Uporabljajte maslo, zelišča, sol in poper ter ne kuhajte s kislinami, kot je limona. Po končani ribi dodajte limono. ”

OL deli najbolj okusne recepte za postrvi, lososa, mrene, črtastega basa in soma.


Torej, kaj pa sezona 18? Prosil sem ga, naj imenuje nekaj mest, ki bi bila odlična destinacija Top Chef. Ampak žal & hellip

& ldquo Lahko & rsquot, ker se bojim & rsquom, da bom eno od teh lokacij podaril. Obstaja urnik. Načrtovano je, da bomo streljali in očitno bi se to lahko spremenilo, a trenutno smo v redu. To je kraj, kjer še nismo streljali, vendar lahko & rsquot preveč podarim. & Rdquo

Tako kot oboževalci Top Chefa radi obožujejo ideje o destinacijah, se ena tema, za katero se zdi, da povzroča največ razprav, vrti okoli zavrnitve odgovornosti, ki je navedena v zaključnih besedilih, kar nakazuje, da bi na sodnike in odločitve rsquo lahko vplivali ali jih usmerjali.

& ldquoZnam to & rsquos malo zavrnitve odgovornosti, ki & rsquos obstaja iz pravnih razlogov. Nikoli. Ne. Nič od tega ni. Ne vem kolikokrat moram to povedati. Jaz bi oddajo zapustil. Te stvari nas ne brigajo. Mi ne & rsquot. Po mojem razumevanju obstaja nekaj resničnostnih tekmovanj v zvezi s hrano, kjer obrnejo inženiring, izberejo zmagovalca in potem to uresničijo. Ne, ne bi bil s to predstavo. Pri nas se o tem nikoli ni niti razpravljalo. Nikoli v 17 sezonah. Nikoli ni bil problem. & Rdquo

Ko sem se poglobljeno poglobil v izdelavo klobase Top Chef, bi bil nespameten, če se s Tomom ne bi pogovarjal o resnični hrani. V ta namen sem mu postavil isto vprašanje, ki sem ga postavil tako Padmi kot Gail in vprašal, katere alumne najboljšega kuharja on in rsquod pripeljeta na zasebno večerjo.

& ldquoI & rsquom bosta verjetno šla z Melisso. Mislil sem, da je njena hrana fantastična, še posebej proti koncu sezone. V tem je bilo nekaj, česar se preprosto nisem mogel dovolj navaditi. Všeč mi je bilo. To sem tudi mislil Gregory & rsquos hrana je bila pogosto spektakularna. Zložil je tudi nekaj odličnih stvari. In Mei Lin, ki je v svoji sezoni dejansko premagala Gregoryja, je tudi ona fantastična, vendar lahko grem v njeno restavracijo. To so trije, ki mi pridejo na misel, a zdaj si nekako želim več hrane Melissa & rsquos. & Rdquo

@ChefMelissaKing je od finalista 12. sezone najboljšega kuharja Bostona do okronanega za najboljšega kuharja v 17. sezoni LA All-Stars @ChefMelissaKing doživel pravo pot!

Oglejte si njeno celotno zgodbo o najboljšem kuharju: https://t.co/VOSs36LUUW pic.twitter.com/YH7q69CfE6

& mdash Bravo Top Chef (@BravoTopChef) 6. julij 2020


Kuhar, ki noče biti opredeljen s svojim vokom

Kuharski mojster Eddie Huang je prevzel mizo v Hot Kitchen, restavraciji v Sečuanu v vzhodni vasi, in vodil daljinski upravljalnik. Bila je sobota zvečer in Orlando Magic je izgubil proti New York Knicks. Ko je Carmelo Anthony dosegel 40 točk, se je telo gospoda Huanga naglo odklonilo.

Obraz gospoda Huanga je bil uokvirjen s svežo črno bejzbolsko kapo New Yorkerja. Na njegovem pinkiju je bil prstan z Davidovo zvezdo na zapestju, Nike+ FuelBand, na trupu pa prevelika črna kapuca s črkami "P-I-F" na sprednji strani.

"To je vrsta zelo kakovostnega plevela," je povedal gospod Huang. "Pravilna uporaba je:" Imaš dat pif, mang? "

Slika

Pri 30 letih je gospod Huang običajno kuhar, kar je le delno res. Je kuhar in solastnik BaoHausa, neformalne tajvanske peciva v East Villageu. Hitro pa doda: "Kot pisatelj imam povedati več kot za vokom."

Od leta 2009 je gospod Huang gradil kariero kot avtor in televizijska osebnost, ki temelji na njegovih drznih kulturnih mešanicah in kritikah vseh in vsega o tem, da ni zapornikov.

Kolače, kot sta Marcus Samuelsson in David Chang, je oznanjeval kot izkoriščevalce in razprodaje. V svojem spletnem poročilu je kot elitist napadel oddajo HBO "Girls". Guyja Fierija je izganjal kot kruto šalo in pontificiral na teme, ki razhajajo, kot so medrasni zmenki in juha s plavuti morskega psa.

Te strani objavlja na svojem blogu Fresh Off The Boat prek svojega aktivnega računa na Twitterju @MrEddieHuang v priljubljeni spletni seriji Vice, imenovani Fresh Off The Boat, in v istoimenskih spominih, ki jih je ta mesec objavila Random House.

Pot gospoda Huanga je bila nomadska in nestabilna. Odraščal je v Orlandu, Florida. Leta 2005 se je preselil v New York, kjer je študiral na pravni šoli Benjamina N. Cardoza na univerzi Yeshiva. "Jo, bil sem predsednik Zveze študentov prava manjšin," je dejal. "Bilo je bolno."

Po diplomi je delal korporativno pravo v Chadbournu & amp Parke, vendar je bil odpuščen marca 2009. Namesto nadaljevanja prava je našel delo kot stand-up strip v salonu Laugh Lounge na spodnji vzhodni strani. Z umetniškim imenom Magic Dong Huang je bil glasen in energičen lik, ki je pripovedoval šale o sojinem mleku, Osami bin Ladnu in odraščanju Kitajca v Orlandu.

"Moj edini cilj kot komika je bil iztrebiti življenje iz mita o modelih in manjšinah," piše v spominih. Po njegovih besedah ​​je vodil ohlapno mrežo trgovcev z marihuano. "Imel sem tudi druge stripe, ki so prodajali mojo travo," je dejal.

V želji po večji izpostavljenosti je gospod Huang nastopil v oddaji Food Network "Ultimate Recipe Showdown", ki jo je vodil gospod Fieri. Čeprav ni zmagal, mu je oddaja dala zaupanje, da je le devet mesecev po odpuščanju odprl BaoHaus s svojim bratom Evanom.

Zložen v kletni prostor na ulici Rivington, je za nekaj dolarjev postregel s slanimi žemljicami velikosti "ugriz" in "naj bi bil kot futuristični Y.M.C.A., kjer bi se lahko družili vsi čudaki," je dejal.

Šest mesecev kasneje je odprl restavracijo s polnimi storitvami Xiao Ye, ki je stregla jedi, kot je Cheeto-Fried Chicken, in vodila specialitete, kot so Four Loko četrtek, na podlagi prepovedane energijske pijače. Kritiki so bili brutalni. "Xiao Ye je hudič," je zapisal Sam Sifton v kritičnem pregledu v The New York Timesu in ga ocenil kot "pošteno".

"Pregled je bil alarm," je dejal gospod Huang. »Spoznal sem, da ne morem trdo igrati in trdo delati. Zato sem se odločil, da se posvetim, vendar ne tako, kot so pričakovali ljudje. Spoznal sem, da je čas, da naredim to, zaradi česar sem prišel, da povem svoje mnenje in se pogovorim o vseh stvareh o Ameriki, ki bi jih rad spremenil. "

Sčasoma se je Xiao Ye zaprl in gospod Huang je z dodatnim časom začel govoriti. Samuelssona je kritiziral, ker je v članku, ki ga je napisal za The New York Observer, izkoristil afroameriške izkušnje pri Rdečem petelinu. Kritiziral je gospoda Changa, ker je zapravljal svojo hrano za zahodno brbončico, in je za kuhanje etnične hrane vzel zahodne kuharje.

G. Huang je šel na ribolov s Tomom Colicchiom in se z Anthonyjem Bourdainom pohodil po Brooklynu. Vžgal je vojne v Twitterju z zvezdami Food Network, kot je Anne Burrell, in jo označil za "ribji file". Letos predava TED o premikajočem se valčku med pristnostjo in narodnostjo.

"Želim dokazati, da za inteligentnost ni treba imeti akademske skladnje," je dejal.

Privlačnost gospoda Huanga ni le v tem, kar govori, ampak tudi v tem, kako to pove-profano združevanje mandarinščine in afroameriške ljudske angleščine, začinjeno z aluzijami na Jonathana Swifta, Charlesa Barkleyja in Cam’rona.

Čeprav je odraščal v primestnem Orlandu, je na gospoda Huanga kljub vsemu močno vplivala kultura hip-hopa, njegov leksikon pa so nočne more Tipper Gore. V nedavni epizodi Vice se je gospod Huang predstavil z besedami: »Kaj pa? To je tvoj fant Eddie Huang. Pisatelj. Kuhar. Človeška panda. Poznavalec BangBros in počaščen sem za še več. " Nato od mimoidočega zahteva cigareto z marihuano.

Spomini gospoda Huanga se berejo kot tajvansko-ameriška hip-hop verzija »Potovanja na konec noči«-anarhični katalog majhnih zmagov in grozljivih prizorov fizičnega zlorabljanja. Po spominih je do zlorabe prišlo očetu gospoda Huanga, nekdanjega vodje tajvanske tolpe-cum-Orlando, restavratorja, in njegove matere, gospodinje.

To je deloma vodilo do identifikacije gospoda Huanga s črno kulturo. "Spomnim se, da bi temnopolti starši udarjali svoje otroke v trgovini, ko so poškodovali sadje," je dejal. »Spomnim se, da me je mama udarila tudi, ko sem poškodoval sadje. Mislil sem: "Mislim, da sem jim bolj podoben kot beli otroci."

Danes gospod Huang živi v majhnem stanovanju v mestu Stuyvesant Town z bratom in 120 pari superg. Obstaja sto N.B.A. video igre na polici in dve neodprti steklenici Hennessy V.S.O.P. na mizi. "Vedno imam dve steklenici Hennessyja, če se kaj zgodi," je skrivnostno rekel gospod Huang.

Kuhinja je propadla, a gospod Huang je vseeno redko doma. Ko ne potuje za Vice, je za pultom pri BaoHausu, zdaj na vzhodni 14. ulici.

Nedavno popoldne je bil tam, v predpasniku in sivi trenirki, ko je hipnotična pesem "Ambition" Waleja pihala nad glavo. Obraz gospoda Huanga so zakrili debeli oblaki pare, vendar se je njegov glas slišal.

"Enostavno sanjati, težje pa živeti," je zapel ob glasbi. "Ljubili me bodo zaradi mojih ambicij."


Garrett PaquettePoklicni ribič na turneji Bassmaster, vodnik po Detroitskem jezeru St. ClairCanton, MI

»Metro Detroit je poln priložnosti za ulov rib, tudi z obale. Zgodaj spomladi do poletja lahko malega ustnika ujamemo na večini pomolov, dokov in obalnih jezer na jezeru St. Clair, ki omogočajo dostop javnosti. Običajno so najboljši tisti okoli izkopanih kanalov ali vhodov v marino. Privijte vabo z ročico ali povlecite nekaj počasi na dno, na primer cevni vložek. To so odlične tehnike za ugriz. Druga odlična priložnost za ribolov z obale je reka Detroit pozno spomladi in v začetku poletja. Beli basi se zbirajo v velikih pakiranjih in bodo pojedli skoraj vsako majhno vabo, ki jo zvijajo. Med tekom lahko na dan ulovite več kot 100 rib. "


13. sezona 'Vrhunski kuhar' 12. epizoda: Vsi želijo ustvariti naslednjo shake barako

Vsak teden, ko se pripravim Vrhunski kuhar Sprašujem se: "Ali je to teden, ko se ljudje končno zlomijo in začnejo izgubljati in morda kaj vržejo ali prisegajo ali kaj zmešajo tako agresivno, da v jezi odidejo iz kuhinje?" in potem sem vsak teden rahlo razočaran, ker se to ne zgodi, in namesto tega vsi kuhajo razmeroma dobro in nekoga pošljejo domov na jed, ki bi bila na koncu dovolj dobra za tekmovanje le eno ali dve epizodi prej.

Zgroženo me je bilo videti Karen Akunowicz prejšnji teden poslala domov po svojo preveč kitajsko-japonsko jed. Še bolj sem razburjen, ker to odide Marjorie Meek-Bradley kot zadnja ženska na tekmovanju. Spet ne stremim krično s strehe Ann Taylor Loft: "Daj jo ženski, ker si to zaslužimo!" ampak mislim, da je imela Karen na tem tekmovanju vse, kar je bilo v njej, in rad bi videl, da bosta skupaj z Marjorie kuhala drug poleg drugega. Zdeli so se tudi kot prijatelji, kar je vedno osvežujoče za gledanje.

Za Quickfire Challenge se kuharji odpravijo v M.Y. Kitajska restavracija in jih pozdravi Padma Lakshmi v še enem popolnoma belem ansamblu (ali se ženska tako rad, nikoli, nikoli ne razlije?) in gostujoči sodnik, legendarni kuhar Martin Yan. Njegova impresivna kulinarična zgodovina je edina stvar, ki bi lahko ukradla pozornost kuharju, ki kuha za vsemi z vokom, polnim velikanskih plamenov.

V tem izzivu imajo kuharji 30 minut časa, da ustvarijo svojo različico ameriške kitajske kuhinje, chop suey. Izdelava tega sloga kitajske hrane bi se zdela dovolj enostavna - če jo je mogoče zamrzniti in prodati v vrečah pri trgovcu Joe's, mora biti nekaj preprostosti. Toda kuhanje z izjemno vročim vokom ni enostavno. Toplota je tako visoka, da lahko v nekaj sekundah preidete iz surovega v ogenj.

Padma pojasnjuje, da v tem izzivu ni imunitete, vendar je zmagovalec v izločitvi precej pomembna prednost.

Marjorie se igra z jastogi in jih vstavlja Jeremyja Forda obraz in rekel: "Pozdravi mojega malega prijatelja", s čimer si je prislužil še eno kljukico v knjigi "moramo biti prijatelji". Zdi se, da se z vokom dobro počuti, medtem ko se drugi nekoliko bolj borijo. Amar Santana še vedno prižge tako visok plamen, da sem resnično zaskrbljen za varnost vseh v tej stavbi. Glede na njegov boj se odloči narediti različico chop suey, ki vključuje tudi ocvrt riž.

Zahvaljujoč čarobnosti televizijskega urejanja mine 30 minut in kuharji Padmi in Martinu hitro postrežejo s svojimi kitajsko -ameriškimi stvaritvami.

Vsi delajo zelo dobro, vendar obstajajo nekatere napake. Carla Dooleyja Jastog v sečuanskem slogu s snežnim grahom, ingverjem, čilijem in pokrovačami nima pravega deleža beljakovin v primerjavi z zelenjavo, ki ga ima tradicionalna sesekljana suey. Kwame Onwuachi jajčevci so se omasili v pečenem ocvrtku s hrustljavo govedino, dolgim ​​fižolom in zeljem. Isaac Toups naredil napako, ker je uporabil preveč koruznega škroba na pikantnem piščancu svojega splošnega tsoja z ocvirkom sambala, pomaranče in brokolija - težave, ki se je je zavedal, ko je jedel.

Seveda je bilo nekaj resno odličnih jedi, kot jih je vedno. Sodniki so uživali v Jeremyjevi Dungeness rakovici z bok choyem in tajskim čilijem ter v Amarovem svinjskem kotletu z zelenjavo in zrnom sečuvanskega popra po rižu. Zmagovalka pa je Marjorie za dobro uravnoteženo jastogovo rezino suey z ingverjem, tajskim čilijem in pomarančo. To je njena prva zmaga Quickfire, ki pa nadležno prihaja brez nagrade imunitete.

Ker so v San Franciscu, odprtih pismih uslužbencev mesta Yelp in garsonjerah v višini 1.000.000 USD, je izločitveni izziv vsekakor povezana s podjetji tveganega kapitala. Kuharji morajo vsak pripraviti koncept hitre restavracije, pripraviti eno jed za 150 obiskovalcev na dogodku in načrtovati preostanek menija za to lokacijo. V pomoč pri presoji tega izziva je ustanovitelj Umami Burger Adam Fleischman.

Ključ do uspeha pri tem izzivu je razvoj koncepta, ki predstavlja kulinarični slog vsakega kuharja, lahko pa bi deloval tudi v katerem koli mestu po vsej državi. Sodniki nenehno trdijo, da "hiter casual" "piha", vendar mislim, da to ni res. Vedno je bila hitra priložnostna jedilnica. Prvič v zgodovini pravzaprav gre dobro.

Ker je to precej velik izziv, kuharji dobijo pomoč v obliki nedavno izločenih tekmovalcev kot sous kuharjev. Tu nastopi Marjoriejeva prednost, saj je zmagala na Quickfireju. Ne samo, da si sama izbere skupino, ampak mora združiti vse kuharje.

Marjorie izbira Angelina Bastidas, kar se zdi kot drzna izbira glede na Angelinine borbe v šovu. Toda poudarja, da je hitra kuharica, zato je za takšno situacijo kot nalašč. Nato poveže Jeremyja Jason Stratton, Carl z Chad White, Amar s Karen (ekipa, ki je ne bi mogel bolj podpreti), Isaac s kolegom južnjakom Wesley True, in Kwame z enim samim Phillip Frankland Lee. Očitno te združitve niso bile nesreče. Phillipa je shranila za Kwame na podlagi njihove zgodovine skupnega dela v kuhinji, ki se je končala z neuspešnimi jedmi.

Zdaj, ko imajo svoje sous kuharje, tekmovalci začnejo načrtovati svoje hitre priložnostne koncepte. Razmišljal sem, kaj bi storil, če bi bil na njihovem mestu. Iskreno povedano, verjetno bi ustvaril restavracijo, kjer je neomejeno brezplačno vino in se lahko pokažete v kopalnem plašču. Ostalo je zame nekako brez veze. Prva oseba, ki bo ustvarila to restavracijo kot pravi kraj, bo od mene prejela naložbo celotnega premoženja (137 USD in Toyota Rav 4 iz leta 2000).

Amar gre s tem, kar zna - in je večino sezone kuhal - in pripravlja piščančjo restavracijo. Marjorie s svojim italijanskim konceptom predstavlja svoje znanje o testeninah iz leta v Per Seu. Carlova ideja je moja najljubša v skupini in je južno sredozemska različica Chipotla (v idealnem primeru brez bakterij). Kwame dela s piščancem in vaflji, Isaac pa s svojim Lousiana gumbom. Vsi nimajo smisla le na splošno, ampak kot restavracije, ki bi lahko delovale po vsej državi.

Edini del, ki nima smisla, je Jeremy, ki se bolj odloči, da svojo restavracijo poimenuje Two Dudes, kot pa ugotavlja, čemu služi. Čeprav je popolnoma zunaj njegovega prostora za krmiljenje, se odloči, da bo objel svojo notranjo deskarsko braho in naredil tacos. Ampak ne samo tacos, "tacos, ki so nekako drugačni", kar zveni kot ideja, ki vam pride na misel, ko ste s kamenjem in buljite v hladilnik, poln jajc, kitajskih ostankov in čevlja.

Given the time constraints, Kwame decides to go with frozen waffles rather than making them himself. It's a risky move since waffles are pretty much half of the dish and the concept, so if he isn't making those, what is he really doing?

The first day of prep wraps and everyone is packing up their station when Marjorie realizes she doesn't have a way to actually cook the pasta at the venue the next day. She doesn't have pasta baskets or even know if she'll have a spot to boil water when she gets there, which might really mess up her spaghetti dish. Thankfully, she comes in the next day and improvises by filling her fryer with water and using that to boil the pasta.

Guests arrive and in typical Top Chef fashion there are long lines at every station, overwhelming all of the chefs. Padma notes, "Everyone looks like they're having a good time. They look happy, they're eating." Of course they're happy, they are eating. Have you ever seen someone eating while looking upset. It never happens — unless you're eating a salad alone at your desk, and then cry away.

First up is Savory Med, Carl's southern Mediterranean build-your-dish concept. I'm biased because this is my favorite cuisine, but it is actually a good idea. It's healthy and flavorful and you can customize your meal. His representative dish is a lamb and piquillo pepper stew with couscous, yogurt, feta, and fresh herb salad in a bowl. Diners at the actual restaurant would be able to mix and match with a pita or bowl, different proteins, and different toppings. The judges all love it, and one diner calls it "investaworthy" which I'm happy about for Carl's sake but want to crawl under my bed when I think about someone saying it out loud.

The judges head from northern Africa to southern Louisiana to Gumbo For Y'All, which is obviously Isaac's concept. He did what he does best and created a gumbo restaurant where you could choose what you want in it. It's a good concept, but even more impressive when he explains you could get a bowl of it for yourself for lunch, or you could get a giant serving of it for your family of 10. It's the alternative to the bucket of fried chicken you bring home on a Friday night. He serves up a version of his original gumbo for the judges and guests, which is gumbo ya ya with chicken and sausage. It's hearty and tastier than some of the other stews he's prepared in past challenges.

Next up is Kwame's chicken and waffle restaurant, Waffle Me. In the actual establishment, diners would be able to pick different kinds of waffles, like whole grain, sweet potato, or coriander, and then also choose the sauces and toppings. Unfortunately, for the challenge he used Whole Foods' frozen mini-waffles that he griddled in butter. The judges are underwhelmed by the ancho chile fried chicken with maple jus, mustard seeds, red onion and scallions on a soggy whole wheat waffle. Even worse, the bite-sized portions are awkward to eat, and also just wouldn't translate to an actual restaurant.

Negative feelings are wiped away when they get to Pasta Mama, Marjorie's station. Her menu is straight-forward, classic pasta and sausage dishes that would be freshly made in-house. As a sample, she serves spaghetti with olive oil poached tuna, chili, garlic, and lemon breadcrumbs. It's properly cooked, tasty, and overall a concept that would definitely work in any city.

Taco Dudes is Jeremy's overly complicated take on a taqueria. Diners would essentially build their own tacos but from a long and overly confusing list of elements and ingredients, one of which is "texture." I don't want to choose the texture of a food, I want the food to have the texture I'm expecting of that item. He serves a crispy pork belly taco with caramel glaze, savoy cabbage slaw, and lime aioli in a crispy wonton or a lettuce wrap. It's kind of hard to eat and good, but not great. Worse than the taco, though, is his description of the restaurant. So it's apparently an Asian take (mostly) on tacos, but also it would feel like a gastropub with cool beer, but also a chill rooftop garden, and then also hot chicks serving you. So Hooters.

The last stop is Amar's rotisserie chicken concept, Pio Pio. Great name, great idea, the only problem is he isn't serving whole chickens or pieces of chicken. The dish is a mix of breast and thigh rotisseries chicken with Spanish yellow rice, four bean salad, and then your choice of roasted garlic mojo, creamy chimichurri, or romesco sauce. All mixed together it's great and flavorful, but not quite there.

At Judges' Table, we're down to so few chefs that they only select the top and bottom two competitors. Marjorie and Carl both had the best dishes and concepts of the day, but ultimately the winner is Carl for Savory Med.

The bottom two of this challenge are Jeremy for his poor concept and Kwame for his mini frozen waffles. Both have been hovering around the bottom in the latter part of this competition. Sadly, Kwame is sent to pack his knives and go. I wanted it to be Jeremy, because I've been burned by a bro before (both emotionally and also once thanks to some careless joint handling).

As Kwame leaves and shakes the judges' hands, he stops at Tom Colicchio and says:

"I just wanted to say, I've been cooking for like, four or five years. I started as a waiter in your restaurant, in Craft. When walking into that kitchen, it really showed me what cuisine could be. Before then I was just working with my mom. And I really appreciate everything."

It brings Tom, Padma, me, and I'm sure every person who watching to tears. Bye, Kwame. And while Tom may have inspired you to become a chef, we all know you'll miss Padma most of all.


Deliti All sharing options for: Top Chef Boston Episode 14: Guacamole, Escamole, Holy Moly

Here we are. This is the last challenge before this season's epic (I assume) finale. Everything's riding on this. It's the whole enchilada. Well, it's not the whole enchilada, but it's a good amount of the enchilada. It's the amount of the enchilada you eat until you feel full before you decide, "Screw it, fitting in your own jeans is for losers" and finish the whole thing, leaving yourself borderline comatose and two hours into a MythBusters marathon.

It's been a short stay in Mexico so far, and Doug Adams has already racked up three wins: his Last Chance Kitchen win to rejoin the competition, the quickfire, and the elimination challenge. He's riding a high, but as we've seen this season, those can come to a very abrupt end.

Doug, Mei Lin, in Gregory Gourdet head out to an organic farm in the city of Jalpa. The whole scene is breathtakingly beautiful: the lush greens, the vibrant produce, the delicate birds and butterflies flitting from branch to branch. Watching it I found myself thinking, "I would totally get married there." Then I started wondering what kind of steps I would need to take to make that happen, aside from the obvious first step of meeting someone I don't want to shove off a cliff by the end of our second happy hour pilsner.

Padma Lakshmi greets the chefs and introduces the executive chef of the farm, Enrique Farjeat. She tells the contestants that this quickfire is going to be bittersweet, which instantly sparks the thought of a sudden death challenge in everyone's mind. But no, it's not that, it's just bittersweet for Padma because it's the last quickfire of the season. Oh, Padma, always making it about yourself.

Her choice of the word "bittersweet" was not only to strike fear in the hearts of the contestants, but also was a lead in for the actual quickfire. For this challenge, the chefs must create both savory and sweet dishes using chocolate. The winner will have his or her first choice of sous chef for the elimination challenge.

With the entire farm at their disposal, the chefs are literally pulling vegetables out of the ground and using them in their dishes. Gregory finds some baby carrots that he wants to use for his sweet dish. I figured I must have heard that wrong but then thought, well, carrot cake exists, and that's delicious, so carrots could totally be a dessert. It's mind-blowing to me how chefs can see an ingredient and instantly envision other flavors and how to put a dish together. Feels like almost a sixth sense. It's probably a lot like my ability to hear someone making plans and instantly know how I will cancel them.

Of the three, Doug seems to be struggling the most with his dessert dish, which is a little enraging. There have been twelve seasons of Top Chef before this, and every season there is one challenge, or at least one chef, who ends up having to prepare a dessert even though it isn't his strong suit. It's just a given. So to prepare for the show and go on and last so long, Doug must have at some point known he should have a go-to, back pocket dessert to whip up if he absolutely has to. Even bubblegum pop princess Katy Perry could skate by with a little karaoke rapping along with Missy Elliot even though she has spent most of her career singing about teenage love and wearing cupcake bras.

Mei serves Padma and Enrique first. Her savory dish is duck with bitter greens and chocolate mezcal. For her sweet dish, she prepared chocolate yogurt with cocoa nibs and nasturtium. The judges love both dishes, though Padma especially loves the dessert's flavor and texture.

Next up is Doug, who felt confident in his savory dish and significantly less so in his sweet one. First he serves seared hen with onions, tomatoes, chocolate, and ancho chili. Next, he serves basically a bowl of whatever chocolates were available for the challenge. He made melted chocolate with chocolate mezcal and white chocolate whipped cream. "It tastes like alcohol that hasn't burned off all the way," notes Padma, which doesn't bode well for Doug in this challenge.

Gregory's savory dish is seared lamb with white chocolate ancho sauce and green chorizo vinaigrette. He's really returned in the last few challenges to making the kind of food I want to eat. Though for the most part all that requires is using chorizo somehow, but from a more broad perspective, he's creating warm, flavorful, vibrant dishes. For his sweet dish he made baby carrots with turmeric, dark chocolate, ginger, and rosemary.

Enrique announces that Gregory is the winner, and that he loved his chocolate and carrot dish so much that he asks permission to use it as a recipe at the farm.

Now we're onto the main event. This elimination challenge is the difference between cooking in the finale and heading home to the United States (though, really, I think you stick around and arguably have to be someone's sous chef, which seems like the ultimate punishment). For this challenge, the chefs will work together to create a six course progressive meal that highlights several Mexican ingredients. Each ingredient will have its own course, and the chefs need to choose carefully who will work with which items.

For some help preparing this meal, a group of the eliminated chefs enters the farm as the pool from which Doug, Mei, and Gregory can select their sous chefs. Bravo has just been keeping them around for moments like this. I imagine they've all been sitting in some courtyard until Padma enters and slowly says, "It's time." Then they file out and onto a windowless van that drops them off at these challenges as a painful reminder that they didn't make it this far in the competition.

Gregory chooses George Pagonis as his sous chef, who is basically the human, Top Chef version of a bodega cat now on his fourth life. Mei obviously chooses her soul sister Melissa King. And Doug only has to say, "Vamos," for his partner in crime Katsuji Tanabe to join him in the challenge.

The six of them head to find out what their Mexican ingredients are. Over the course of the meal they will have to highlight guava, avocado, queso fresco, poblano peppers, huitlacoche (a mold that grows in corn), and escamole (ant eggs). Gregory and Mei quickly pick the ingredients they want to work with and Doug is left with cheese and ant eggs, the two ingredients he was the least interested in cooking with.

Because this is a progressive meal, the three teams must plan the menu together so that it flows nicely and highlights each dish the best it can. Once the order and dishes are set everyone heads to the Hidalgo Market to shop for ingredients. Doug lucked out having Katusji as a sous chef because he speaks Spanish and can help navigate the market and the items. Doug thanks him for this by saying, "only two beers tonight," which makes me think Katsuji was the MOST fun back in the Boston apartment after a challenge.

Before heading to start cooking, Doug, Mei, and Gregory have a totally natural and not at all staged or forced conversation about how their families feel about them being on Top Chef and now in the final episodes. It's vague and uncomfortable and feels like the producers' last ditch effort at an emotional storyline not directly connected to a challenge.

The judges enter La Casona, which looks like the location where Andy Cohen would host the Real Housemadres of San Miguel reunion show where Sophia throws a glass of tequila at Ana Maria calling her a no-good mentirosa. It's actually a very beautiful setting, but it's hard to pay attention to that because Padma has what appears to be the tusk of an adult elephant hanging around her neck.

Gregory's guava course is first because it's the lightest and most logical start to the meal. He prepared chilled guava soup with bay scallops, haba ñ ero, and roasted guava. All of the judges at the table love the flavors, Tom Colicchio especially enjoys the heat in it. Richard Blais points out that cold fruit soup is pretty easy to make boring or bad. Isn't cold fruit soup just a smoothie though? Either way, Gregory did the opposite and made something truly delicious and nuanced.

The second course is avocado prepared by Mei. She made traditional guacamole, though instead of chunky preparation served in a molcajete (because this isn't a business lunch at Rosa Mexicana), her presentation is inspired by a sushi roll. Her classic guacamole — plus the addition of xoconostle — is rolled up in thin slices of avocado and then topped with radish, serrano, and tortilla strips. The whole table admires the technical work and enjoys the dish, but ultimately question her choice to just serve guacamole as a course during the second to last challenge. It's a simple and unimaginative dish beyond the plating.

Next is the third course, which is escamole from Doug. He made a tortilla español with escamoles and escamol aioli. During preparation he layered in the escamoles as many ways as he could: crisping them, adding them to the tortilla, roasting and making an aioli from them. What he thought would be a flavorful dish when it came to the ingredient though, actually fell short. The flavor and texture of the escamoles were lost a bit with the rest of the egg and potato in the tortilla.

Mei served the fourth course with the corn mold. She made a huitlacoche agnolotti with roasted corn broth. The judges all love it, the broth in particular. One of the Mexican judges says, in Spanish, that he would order it again. Thankfully, Padma translated for us. The overall opinion of the table that it's one of the strongest dishes of the night so far.

Gregory is back for the fifth course highlighting poblano peppers. He prepared pork and poblano stew with roasted tomatillos. "This is Mexico," said someone at the table, implying that these charred, layered, rich flavors are what cooking in this country is all about.

The last course of the night is Doug with the cheese. He served smoked queso fresco with spiced honey, squash chips, and charred pickles. A cheese plate, like a cold fruit soup I guess, can be very boring and actually quite difficult to make good. Doug did just that though with his fresh flavors and creative textures. The table loves it and it's an excellent end to an impressive meal.

This decision for the judges is a tough one because the meal had its ups and downs, and they are three incredibly different chefs. The one thing that everyone can agree on off the bat, though, is that Gregory should go to the finale. Both his chilled guava soup and his pork and poblano stew were excellent dishes and arguably highlights of the evening.

So the actual decision is really just between Mei and Doug. Both tremendously talented chefs, both struggled with one of their dishes this evening. Mei is clearly a technical badass and the preparation on her guacamole dish was flawless, but at the end of the day she still just served guacamole despite the myriad of dishes she could have created highlighting the avocado (this is according to Tom and not my opinion because, frankly, the only way I know how to serve avocado is guacamole or on a sandwich). Doug, however, was charged with highlighting escamole in a dish somehow and not only did he not make a particularly tasty tortilla, but more importantly, the flavor of the star ingredient got lost in all of the other elements.

After what seemed to be a very difficult decision, Doug is told to pack his knives and go. I was a fan of Doug, and I'm sad to see him leave the competition again. Though, I'm apparently not as sad as Tom, who tells him that he's going to make a trip to Portland so that they can go fishing together. Honestly, Tom, forget this Najboljša nova restavracija nonsense and go start a show called Fishin' with Tom and Doug. I'd watch that. Who wouldn't?

As much of a bummer as it to see Doug leave the show after earning his way back, I could not be more excited for a Mei-Gregory finale. From the first episode, these are the two that I thought would make it to the end. I never wrote that here because I don't really like to gamble (aside from carrying an iPhone around without a case, which is basically like betting $600 a day that I won't do something stupid).

So here we go. Next week we will see which of these two totally badass, oddly soup/stew/broth heavy contestants will win the twelfth season of Top Chef.


Hunting a 500-year-old Shark

Out on the mighty ocean, men and women of a certain kind seek to test themselves, to find out what they are made of. The rest of us more cautious types watch from afar and marvel uncomprehendingly. Among the vast literature of aquatic endurance—stories of sailing in search of treasure or an unknown island or a rumored passage, or just from one side of an inhospitable sea to the other—a small but strong strand is the quest to catch the monster. Melville’s Ahab and Hemingway’s Old Man spring to mind. Morten Strøksnes’s account of how he and a friend set about trying to haul in one of the world’s most outlandish giant predators from the inky depths of the Norwegian sea is a worthy addition to the subgenre.

The author, an Oslo-based literary journalist, casts “Shark Drunk” as a quest, arbitrary in direction by definition and, in practical terms, completely pointless. The Greenland shark is huge—bigger than a Great White—and hideous. It can live up to 500 years and does not have sex until into its second century. Parasites eat its eyes, blinding it. The shark flesh smells of urine and is imbued with a toxin that induces a state akin to extreme intoxication in anyone dumb enough to eat it—hence the title of the book.

A Greenland shark swims very slowly through the depths, feeding off sleeping seals and the blubber of dead whales. To say that it has limited sporting appeal would be overstating the case. For bait, Mr. Strøksnes and his friend use a chunk of whale meat or a thighbone covered in rotting meat from a Highland bull carcass, having previously dumped to the bottom of the sea sacks of stinking bull guts or the waste from cod livers.

Obviously no one in their right mind would go after this creature for the fun of the fishing. The pursuit of the Greenland shark becomes a kind of literary curtain-rail upon which Mr. Strøksnes suspends his collection of musings and diversions. “Our thoughts have slipped their moorings and are drifting with the current,” he writes as the two adventurers sit patiently in their inflatable, waiting day after day for a shark to bite. And drift they do, far but rarely too far, from the matter at hand. The sea and its infinite wonders remain the main focus. Mr. Strøksnes makes a telling point—one that had not occurred to me before—about the vertical dimension, with life from top to bottom. “The vast majority of living space on earth, so to speak, can be found in the sea.”

During one of several periods of non-fishing enforced either by the weather or the malfunction of the outboard engine essential to shark fishing, Mr. Strøksnes delves deep into works of the 16th-century Swedish bishop Olaus Magnus, and in particular his epic ocean map, Carta marina, with its depictions of red-eyed, fanged sea monsters. The sea swine, for instance, had four dragon’s feet and an eye in its navel. The ziphius had an owl’s face and a dorsal fin it used to cut into ships to eat their crews.


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